I own a 2007 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite travel trailer. Within 2 months after purchase it was leaking around the storage door. In addition, I have experienced several leaks in the areas where the exterior panels join. I have used several types of caulk recommended by RV dealers. All I have tried shrink and crack within a few months, not even lasting a season. I would appreciate suggestions.

http://www.koolseal.com/product_detail.asp?product_id=61-220

The above url is for what I have used for many years, and to date it has never became hard and brittle and cracked. It keeps it's elasticity and does a wonderful job. They also have a roof coat that you can roll on with a paint roller that does a great job for bigger areas. You can buy the sealer in quarts also at many RV stores.

Happy RVing.

Jungle Jim, thanks for the reply. My problem has been around the window on the end next to the hitch, around the storage doors and down the seams where the front and end panels join on the end of the trailer down the corners. I need to be able to apply a bead of compound of some sort. The trailer is white, so of course I would want it to be white. Let us know what you suggest. Thanks.

The Kool Seal is white and I have used it around doors, along the roof edge, around windows, and on the corner seams of TT's. Just have to use a small putty knife to get a small bead on it. I think Kool Seal also has the tube that go in caulking guns.

The good thing about Kool Seal is that you can use it in the rain and it still holds and fixes the leak. I did all the plastic roof seals on a HR fifth wheel and five years later it had no leaks, so I am sold on it for sealer. It was also still pliable five years later.

Hope you find something that works great for you.

http://www.koolseal.com/product_detail.asp?product_id=SPCTUB-99
you might look at this one, but I think the white kool seal also comes in tubes.

Happy RVing.

I started using Silicon II by GE and have had really good luck with it.

Denny

Heyas,

If you just apply a small bead of caulk, chances are it will lift after awhile and you'll still have a leak. Your best option is to loosen the screws around the frames and create a gap for the caulk to flow into, then re-tighten the screws and wipe off the excess caulk.

By loosening the screws and creating the gap, you give the caulk surfaces to cling too. As for the seams where the exterior panels join, get as much of the old caulk and what ever off the surfaces. Take a cheap flat blade screw driver, heat the shaft with a torch and bend it into an " L " shape and then grind the flat tip into a " V " point. Use this to dig into the joints and remove as much remaining caulk as you can get, without digging through the surface.

Rather than silicon caulk, try some polyurethane caulk. It sets up a bit harder and still remains flexible, plus it adheres better than silicon.

Have a good one,

Haflinger

I guess your issue is just the cracking within the caulking bead and not separation from the surface. However just in case:

Be sure to clean the area where you are caulking, well. I clean with general cleaners then use a clean shop towel with acytone right at the application area. Many general cleaners leave a waxy surface and the acytone will clean it away. Better safe than sorry.

Acytone removes paint so be carefull of you use it and use gloves.

Happy Trails,
RT